Ravenna, the heart of Emilia Romagna

As much as I loved geography while in school I must admit I never learnt Italy’s regions. So when my friend told me we’ll be visiting the heart of Emilia Romagna I was left with a serious thinking void. So I hit the Internet in order to find out some information and to book us hotel rooms in Ravenna.

Emilia Romagna

Emilia Romagna is a region in Italy, located on the Adriatic coast. The region’s capital is Bologna, but Ravenna is considered the heart of the region. Back in the 6th and 8th centuries Ravenna was the main center of Byzantine civilization in Italy. Other cities in the region are: Cesena, Rimini, Ferrara, Reggio nell’Emilia, Forli, Piacenza, Modena and Parma. The region is very famous for the culinary delights such as bolognese sauce and mortadella (from Bologna) and Parmesano Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma (from Parma).

Ravenna

Once we arrived in Ravenna, we went to the hotel to check in our rooms. A quick shower later, we were off to experience the city and get something to eat. In the hotel’s lobby we got very good information about the sites to visit and what to do on our day in the town. I quickly found out that the old town is mainly a pedestrian area, with bars and cafes.

The Basilica of Sant’ Appollinari Nuovo

The most important landmark in the city is The Basilica of Sant' Appollinari Nuovo. So after eating a quick lunch we headed there. The entrance costs about 7 euro and you can visit the entire building with its famous Mosaics. The Basilica was erected by the Arian King Theodoric and served as his palace chapel. The chapel was reconstructed under the rule of the Byzantine emperor Justinian I in 561 and was dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours. Some of the mosaics have been destroyed during reconstructions but the mosaics of the lateral walls, twenty-four columns with simplified Corinthian capitals, and an ambo are still preserved. The mosaics are amazing. Thirteen of them located on the upper band of the left lateral wall depict Christ’s miracles and parables, while the thirteen located on the right wall depict the Passion and Resurrection. We did notice that the flagellation and crucifixion are lacking. Other mosaics depict saints, prophets and evangelists. We were also attracted by the procession of the 22 Virgins of the Byzantine period and by the Three Magi, very nicely depicted on the walls. For its beauty the Basilica is now on the World Heritage List (UNESCO).

About 1 km from the Basilica lays the St. Francis basilica, where Dante Alighieri is buried in a tomb near the church. The church was rebuilt in the 10th-11th century but fragments of mosaics from the primitive church are still visible on the floor.

The Baptistery of Neon

Then we went to the Baptistery of Neon, also known as the Orthodox Baptistery to distinguish it from the Arian Baptistery. I was happy to find an Orthodox church in a Catholic world. The church was erected by Bishop Ursus. The interior is breathtaking. The ceiling mosaic depicts John the Baptist baptizing Jesus in the Jordan River. To one side stands an old water god while the center of the mosaic depicts a procession of the twelve apostles.

The Arian Baptistery

Of course we had to visit the Arian Baptistery as well. It dates back to the end of the 5th century and is contemporary with the Basilica of Sant' Apollinare Nuovo. Inside the octagonal church there are four niches and a dome with mosaics. They depict the baptism of Jesus, a procession of the Apostles, led in separate directions by Saint Peter and Saint Paul, being very similar to the Baptistery of Neon. It’s one of the eight structures in Ravenna registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Next to it, there is the Church of Spirito Santo, also built by Theodoric. Unfortunately little is preserved of the original church.