6/22/01 - We left the house at 1:30 p.m. and stopped for lunch at Jack-n-Box before beginning our adventure. Hwy 52 soon became I-15, as we traveled northward with heavy traffic that didn't lightened up until Barstow. A gas stop in Colton kept the van moving to the Nevada border, as we listened to "The Mists of Avalon" book on tapes. We reached our Friday night stop at Buffalo Bill's around 7 p.m. and enjoyed their dinner buffet.
6/23/01 - After a Buffalo Bill breakfast and a gas stop in Las Vegas (kb), we were on the road again. Our niece Kelly checked out the hot shirtless guys in a Jeep at the gas station; she commented that they looked like surfers to her. We listened to several more book tapes and found the reader for "Witchlight" to be the worst. He didnšt pause, breathe, or otherwise modulate his voice. We were all glad when that one concluded. Before we knew it, we had passed through Arizona, stopped at a very nice I-15 rest stop in Western Utah, changed to I-70 and were heading East across Utah.
There had been thunderclouds and lightening strikes to the east for sometime. Now and again, we got sprinkled on or were driving on already wet road. There were smaller and smaller towns, pine trees, ridges, cliffs, mesas, and signs that said to watch for deer and elk. Temperature had dropped, so we took a break from our tapes and opened the windows to smell the rain in the air. As we continued on, the scenery included sandstone formations. The cliffs were now closer, but the colors were muted due to the overcast conditions. By the time we reached I-191, we had seen one formation that definitely looked like a breast (with nipple - color change and all). It is surprising what you can find in a rock. The road was now dry and clear all the way into Moab. We crossed the Colorado River just outside of town around 6 p.m. Then we made a beeline for the Rustic Inn, found dinner at the Sliderock Cafe, went souvenir shopping, and were ready for lights out.
6/24/01 - Sunday, we played tourist driving through town in all of 10 minutes and still saw most of it. We stopped at a fossil/rock shop and checked out their wares. David found an interesting rock for Karen's collection. Next, we drove Hwy 128 (d)
(the scenic route along the Colorado River) (d) heading northeast. The cliffs kept us stopping for pictures (d), (d)
. One picture (d)
is a close up of top right corner of the another picture (d)
, as I played with my zoom option on my Sony digital camera. One stop, we hiked down to the river and found a sandy beach. Kelly and I enjoyed watching the water, while David explored the bushes. Notice the raft (the bottom center of the picture (d) ). The river is fairly calm through here, so rafters are plentiful. The first sighting and capture for David was by the river; a Whip-tailed Lizard (d),
(d). Temperature by the river was in the 90s.
Back on the road, the formations continued to catch our eye (d). This is across the Colorado River (d)
just before we turned around at the Dewey Bridge. The river was between the trees and the hoodoos. On the return, we photographed a Collared Lizard before he went down a hole (but didn't have the shot focused right). We turned off and took the loop road through Castle Valley on the way to the Manti-La Sal National Forest and La Sal Mountains. Looking back into Castle Valley as we headed up to 10,000-ft (d)
. Up, up, and away in the mountains (d)
. The road changed from pavement to compressed rocks, as the pinion pines and chaparral gave way to juniper pines and aspen trees (d)
. Along the road, we found Russian Thistle growing and the temperature had dropped to the low 80s. We shared the road with wandering cows (d)
and horses (kb). Rains came again, but no downpour as the road returned us to Moab, south of town.
Kelly and I found time for a dip in the pool before dinner at Pizza Hut. Afterwards, we made a stop at the local market to replenish our ice, drinks, and other supplies. We found the Bermans, Berlingers, and Frenchie (our guide) moving through the aisles. They were camping north of town by the river. Linda and Jerry's motorhome had blown a tire in Barstow and had coolant problems the next day on the way up, so they had just arrived in town. During the conversation, Linda mentioned the timezone change. We hadn't realized there had been a lose of an hour, but it explained why we had had a problem getting breakfast at the fast food joint that morning.
6/25/01 - Monday morning, David rented a Jeep Wrangler 4.0L Sport from Farabees. Our first Jeep Adventure with Frenchie La Chance included - Jerry, Linda (Sunlight employee), & Jessica (age 7) Berman (Ramona, CA), John & Tracey (Sunlight ex-employee) Berlinger (Lakeside, CA), Tom (Qualcomm employee) & Ben (age 7) Thorvick (Poway, CA), Jim (Las Vegas, NV), and Bob & Kathy Smith (Johnson City, NY). After joining up at City Market, our troop of 6 Jeeps headed for Chicken Corners (rated a 2 on a scale of 1-4+). Because David was a beginner at off-roading, we frequently got the #2 spot behind Frenchie's Jeep.
The trail took us over the Moab West Rim (d), and along the Colorado River. At Harrah Pass - height 4,783 feet, (d), (d) we saw Potash ponds (d), on the other side of the river. The colors of the cliffs were bright as we drove down (tt) on the other side of pass. At our first stop (our Jeep is white with a dark hard top) (d), Frenchie (d)
pointed out the way up the rocky ridge, so everyone (d) could make their way over to our first balanced rock formation (d). David's eagle eyes found Collared (f) and Leopard (f) Lizards; these became know as "10-200" stops on the CBs. David is holding the Leopard Lizard he caught (f).
The scenery colors were vivid (d) on both the high cliffs (tt) and deep drop offs (f). David brought out the video camera and walked out to the edge of the cliff (d). I and Linda joined him briefly (tt). Tom and Ben posed at the cliffs' edge (tt). Heights are bad; it's the edges that I worry about. We all took turns hollering - "Camera Stop". A great vista shot also kept me from looking down (d). Kelly (d) and David waited patiently for me to finish with my pictures. I alternated between my new Sony digital and old Vivitar point-n-shoot cameras. David was using his electronic Pentax with a short zoom lense.
The reason the trail is named Chicken Corners - the trail ends in a goat path around a corner with cliff on one side and a drop off to the river on the other. Several of the group walked out to the spot (they are the white specs in the picture) (tt), while the rest of us waited by the Jeeps. After some encouragements at one stop on the return, most of us walked across a miniature sandstone arch by the cliff's edge (tt). There was the occasional -- "fill-in-the-blank, get away from the edge" heard as we substituted the blank for Ben, Jessica, Kelly, David, and anyone else who looked like they were getting too close. Loading up to move, David had the video camera making a nosedive out the back of the Jeep. While not visually broken, he couldn't get the focus to work afterwards. Well, so much for his "DeMille impersonation of an epic Off-Road video".
Our lunch stop was made in a group of wind caves. Eating finished; we took some time to explore the caves. Kelly and I found several nooks (f) and crannies (f), (f) and a few interesting windows (f) inside their bumpy walls. Frenchie got us moving again and lead us to a circa 1950 Uranium Miner's house (f) One room built into the side of a small hill by a now dry creek. We took a break, while everyone check it out (tt). We also drove by some rocks with Indian petraglyphs and David got one more photo of a Collared Lizard (f). Temperature today was in the high 80s.
At the end of the day everyone thought David, for a beginner, had done well on the dips and obstacles. The final obstacle of the day was one I could have done without. A steep incline over rocks to a small turnaround before a drop off to the river and back up. Scared while we're doing it, it was fun (spelled r -e -l -i -e -f) when we were at the top. Kelly's and my assessment of the day was we were going to need more water tomorrow. After dinner and grocery shopping, David, Kelly, and I concluded we were too tired for more than a little TV and then bed. It must be the altitude.
6/26/01 - Tuesday, we awoke to grey and black clouds as a storm front had rolled into town. Not thinking much of the clouds, we left our jackets behind and went to meet the group. Promptly at 8:30, the 7 Jeeps (John and Tracey decided to rent one for 2 days) headed out for the Gold Bar Rim trail (rated a 3). We drove past Uranium mine tailing piles and climbed a switch back dirt road to the top of the Rim. Stopping on the top, we looked across the horizon and saw Skyline Arch (part of Arches National Park) on the horizon to the East and Moab to the South. Some of the Jeeps (not us) tried a large obstacle before we moved off.
Next under grey skies and a sprinkle or two, we headed towards the Monitor and Merimac monoliths (f). As we drove over a mostly sandy road, we were behind Bob and Kathy's Jeep (f), (tt) . We came up on the backside of the Monitor (smaller of the two formations) (f) and parked on Slickrock (a.k.a. petrified sand dune) (tt) . The group hiked up about 1/3 of the way up the Monitor's side to view Indian petraglyphs (f), (f) and dinosaur footprints (f). The hike was a little too much to my liking, so I waited about 1/2 way up. Jessica and Ben enjoyed the footprints (tt). As everyone returned, the wind came up and we decided to make this our lunch stop. We brought our chairs and used the Jeeps for some protection from the wind. Barely finished with lunch, the rains came. It continued raining as we headed over to the Merimac (f). Driving between them, (f) we circled the Merimac on Slickrock with the rain coming steady and hard (tt) . Once everyone made it to the far side of the monolith (f), some of the Jeeps tried an obstacle called Wipeout Hill (f). During Tom and Bob's Jeep attempts to go down and up the hill, the rain stopped. Bob made both attempts, but not on the same side (f). Tom went down okay, but couldn't go up on the same side. So, he had to go up the same way Bob did (f). Kelly, David and I were wishing we had remembered our jackets. Our wet T-shirts were cold. Temperature today was in the low 60s.
Back in the Jeeps and behind Frenchie's Jeep (f), the trail took us past Determination Towers . Frenchie related how the towers have been used in many commercials (f). A rock climber's rope still hangs off of one tower (the end of the rope about 40 ft up), as he was unable to release it from the rocks. Later at a "10-100" (potty) stop, David found a Midget Faded Rattlesnake (f) Luckily no one was using that bush. David did manage to coax the snake into the sun for a picture (f).
With the afternoon only 1/2 gone, the sun coming out and the trail at an end, the group voted to have Frenchie continue with another trail. He led us along Hwy 128 past the Red Cliffs Ranch and turned towards Fisher Towers and Onion Creek. Red Cliffs Ranch had played host to many movie crews in the past, including a few of John Wayne's movies. We crossed Onion Creek (f) many times, as we moved deeper towards Fisher valley (f). As always the formations caught our eye (f). Before reaching the Towers, we entered the creek bed and followed it back out (tt) . Driving in the creek brought the canyon walls close on both sides (f). At one of the picture stops, I decided to ride with Frenchie and gave Kelly my front seat with David (f). This part of the ride provided many good pictures, including one of a hoodoo pointing to the moon (f). Tom took another picture from a different angle (tt) .
When we returned to Hwy 128, David hollered for a "10-200" as he saw the Collared Lizard (f) that had eluded him on Sunday and a Sagebrush Lizard (f). We told him to catch up when he was done and we'd wait for him where Hwy 128 stops at I-191. David and Kelly caught up about 25 minutes later and showed us his capture, a 2nd Collared Lizard he found after the 1st one disappeared. The Collared Lizard promptly got a hold of his finger and would not let go, until David gave its jaws some persuasion. Back into the sack for him.
After the evening's good-byes, we went into town for food at the Moab Dinner. Next a stop for ice and milk. While making my purchases, the clouds had returned. I was greeted by a downpour as I ran for the Jeep. It lasted for an hour, but only left time for a little TV and lights out. It was hard to tell who fell asleep faster -- Kelly or David. Hanging onto the wheel/seat and chasing lizards is hard work.
6/27/01 - Wednesday, Frenchie led us on the Metal Masher (rated a 3+) trail. However, our start was delayed as David realized at 8 a.m. that he had left his Pentax camera next to the rock where he caught the lizard the night before. It was looking like a mighty expensive lizard at this point. We relayed our problem, as we dropped Kelly off with Frenchie. She rode in his Jeep for the rest of the day. Frenchie said the group would wait for us on I-191 above the river. We rushed out Hwy 128 to the area opposite the Sorrel River Ranch. And lo, the camera was right where he left it. But the night moisture and red dirt had affected it, so he was without its use for most of the day. We caught up to everyone about 9 a.m. and 7 Jeeps headed out for the day.
Our drive took us into Bull Canyon after passing a hoodoo that Frenchie referred to as the Gooney Bird (f). It looks as if it is standing guard at the entrance (f) and could be seen from where we parked at the other end to view the Uranium arch (f). Driving to the other end of the canyon, we stopped below the Gemini Arches (d). Frenchie remarked we would be driving over those arches later. They and the canyon walls (d) were a long way up. Our Jeeps were lined up at the base (tt) . David found another Sagebrush Lizard and I took the pictures (d), (d). Tom found a lone flower (tt) and a lone pine (tt) . Heading out, Jim found mechanical problems with his Jeep and had to end his trip and return to town. We waved goodbye and wished "safe trip" over the CBs, becoming 6 Jeeps.
The trail continued over more Slickrock. It's called this when the petrified sand dune has a coating of loose sand, which acts like your driving on ball bearings. Fortunately, that was not the case today and we found good traction. Now and again, someone would need an assist negotiating the path and Frenchie would get out to offer directions (f) on where to place the tires. David and I got our share of help too (tt) , (tt) , (tt) . Over the obstacle, the gang (tt) was right behind us.
Now, we had reached the Rock Masher obstacle. Frenchie and Tom walked the obstacle to study the best route (d) Tom was determined to make this one (f). Linda road with him on his attempt. But after several tries and a dented door later, Tom ended up needing to be strapped up and down. Lunch was had in the shade of the chaparral (d) before we moved again.
Some dirt, mostly rock, we continued our ups and downs (f), (f). We had made a return to the Western Rim and took a picture break (d). "Jessica and Ben, no running around - we are near an edge" came across the CBs. As an afterthought - "Kelly, that includes you too". Do you suppose, there was a few nervous "Nellies". Both David (d) and Kelly (d) tried to make me nervous. Kelly started laughing when she thought what her parents would say if they could have seen over the edge. The vistas (d) were fabulous though. This one is of Moab in the green area (d) to the right with the La Sal Mountains in the back.
On the trail to our next obstacle, Frenchie made a stop that required David to stop our Jeep on an incline. Before he could put it in park, we started to slide. Now with both feet on the brakes, he's hollering, "The brakes aren't holding!!!". In a blink, we slid the rest of the way down, running into the backend of Frenchie's Jeep. Bamm!! We stopped. The damage - a splayed end on our front bumper as it connected with his trailer hitch. Apparently, the brakes had over heated and/or had a gas bubble was the consensus. No one was hurt, but the trail had definitely earned its name for Tom and us.
Continue to Utah - Part 2
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